Visiting the Temple Town and its Surrounding Temples

If you throw a stone, chances are that it might hit a temple. This town is known for its temples and mathas. There are around 188 Hindu temples within the municipal limits of this town. Apart from these, there are several thousand temples around the town thereby giving the town the sobriquets "Temple Town" and "City of temples" A.K.A Kumbakonam. Its also acquired the name "Cambridge of South India" due to its prominent center of European education and Hindu culture.

People visit here majorly for the Navagraha temples spread across. We added some more temples to the list and in total visited 18 temples in 2 days.


Snapshot of Navagraha Temple Details

We didn book hotel through any third-party site and instead contacted directly the hotel. The rates were less and no advance booking amount was needed. We stayed in Oppili Residency.(Tripadvisor). The owner helped us in arranging cab and helped us cover most of the places in 2 days. The hotel was less expensive, very clean and comfy.

We left  on Friday night through KPN travels bus and reached Kumbakonam at 5 AM. We took a rick to the hotel and left for the temple visit at 6.30 AM. We visited the following temples in the same order on Day 1

1)Tirunallar Saniswaran Temple
The only temple which is far from the Kumbakonam town. Its in the Karaikal district of Pondicherry .The presiding Navagraha deity is Lord Shani and the place Tirunallar was historically called Dharbaranyam.

Before entering the temple, generally people visit the Shani Theertham, and take bath there . Its a practice to leave behind one of the clothes worn. This is followed by a visit to the nearby Kalitheertha Vinayaka temple and offered prayers and the coconuts are broken after surrounding it over the heads three times. People also distribute Rice mixed with sesame seeds (til rice) which is sold for INR 10, to the impoverished people who will be in great number for the same purpose.

Since it was a saturday, the crowd was too much and we bought special darshan ticket for 100 INR. Even in this , it took close to 4 hours inside. We were already famishing.

2)Keezhaperumpallam Nagannathaswamy Temple
Next we visited Kethu Temple, located at Keezhaperumpallam, Nagapatnam district of Tamilnadu.

3)Thiruvenkadu Swetharanyeswarar Temple
The Navagraha deity here is the Buddha and the main deity is Shiva - Swetharanyeswarar ("lord of white forest") and the goddess is Brahma Vidya ambal. The temple is especially known for its unique incarnate of Lord Shiva called "Agora Murthi".

We finished the above temples by 1 PM and had lunch en route to Vaitheeswaran Koil. We had to spend 3 hrs in the temple. The temple town is known for palm leaf astrology called Naadi astrology . Interested people can visit there. Anyone can direct to the known astrology center.


4)Vaitheeswaran Temple
As name suggests, Shiva is worshipped as Vaitheeswaran or the "God of healing" here. The Navagraha deity here is Angaraka. 

5)Kanjanur,Agniswarar Temple
The Navagraha deity is Sukra (Venus) here. However, the main idol in the temple is that of "Agniswarar" or Shiva

6)Suryanar Kovil 
The Navagraha deity is Suriyanar, the Sun .The temple also has separate shrines for the other eight planetary deities. So, if short of time, can visit only this temple which is near to the Kumakonam town.

7)Sri Vittala Rukmini Temple
Its a modern temple and  is located in Govindapuram near Kumbakonam. It resembled like the ISKON of Bangalore. It was a quick visit here

8)Thiruvidaimarudur,Mahalingeswarar Temple
Its one of the 7 major Shiva temples and the temple is beautiful adorned with four gateway towers. The temple complex is one of the largest in the state. The entry and pathway is lined up with pillars and from the distant , it looks like,it converges to the main deity.

Shiva is worshiped as Mahalingeswaraswamy, and is represented by the lingam, with his idol referred to as Jothimayalingam. Definetly a must visit , at least to know the vastness and appreciate the cholas for their skills.

9)Tirunageswaram Naganathar Temple
One of the Navagraha temple and the presiding deity here is Rahu. The ablution of the image of Rahu during Rahukaalam with milk turning to blue colour in this temple is considered to be a miracle and attracts devotees from distant places.

10)Uppiliappan/Oppiliyappan  Temple
The temple is located near to Rahu temple and also was close to our stay. Also known as Thiruvinnagar of Venkatachalapathy Temple, temple is dedicated to Vishnu and is one of the 108 Divya Desams.  As per the legend, the temple food (Neyvethiyam ) is always prepared without salt. So the name. The reason for it can be a separate blog. Interested people can read about.

We had dinner at Aryaas Restaurant in the Kumbakonam  and called it a day.

Photos from Day 1:

 Keezhaperumpallam Nagannathaswamy Temple

 Keezhaperumpallam Nagannathaswamy Temple

 Pillars at Keezhaperumpallam Nagannathaswamy Temple


 Vaitheeswaran Temple

 Sri Vittala Rukmini Temple

 Thiruvidaimarudur Mahalingeswarar Temple

 Thiruvidaimarudur Mahalingeswarar Temple

 Thiruvidaimarudur Mahalingeswarar Temple

We left at the same time even next day and visited the following temples

11)Nachiyar Koil
Its in the outskirts of Kumbakonam and is one of the 108 Divya Desamas dedicated to Vishnu. The temple was not opened when we went at 7 and so we decided to visit it last when we return.

One of the prominent feature of this temple is the Kal Garuda. The Kal Garuda image in the temple used during the festive occasions is believed to increase in weight seeking 4, 8, 16, 32, 64 and 128 people in succession when the procession comes out of various gates from the sanctum to the main entrance of the temple. Quite a legend.

12)Apatsahayesvarar Temple, Alangudi
One of the Navagraha temple and the presiding deity is Guru. The Jaggery rice here was  steaming hot and yummy.

13)Rajagopalaswamy Temple, Mannargudi
The name Mannargudi is generally associated with Mafia of a well known person. But the temple is also known as Dakshina Dwarka. The temple is massive and the temple tank, Haridra Nadhi, associated with the temple is outside the temple complex and is considered one of the largest temple tanks in India

14)Garbharakshambigai temple
The temple is located at Thirukarukavoor, 20 km from Kumbakonam. Karu means womb, Ka means save and oor means village. The womb is believed to be saved by the temple deity. Hence the village name. Women visit here and perform different rituals for the protection of their womb.

15)Brihadeeswarar Temple
The temple needs no introduction. Hands down Raja Raja Chola 1 !!

16)Tyagaraja Swamy samadhi 
Every year, Carnatic musicians from accorss the world visit here and pay homage by performing Tyagaraja Aradhana. The venue of the festival is near the samadhi of Tyagaraja on the banks of River Cauvery. Calm and beautiful place it is. The river Cauvery was not in her full glory though. 

17)Kailasanthar Temple,Thingalur
We were late here by 15 min and so temple was closed. So visited Tyagaraja Swamy samadhi and then visited here. The last Navagraha temple we visited and the presiding deity here is Soma (Moon)

18)Swaminathaswamy temple, Swamimalai
The temple is dedicated to Murugan and is 5 km from Kumbakonam. As per the legend, Muruga, son of Shiva, explained the meaning of the Pranava Mantra to his father at this place and so the name Swaminathaswamy.

We reached hotel at around 7 PM and then left to Kumbakoanam town in search of brass items. We had no time to explore, so had quick dinner at Aryaas again and left to bus stand. We reached Silk Board at 5 AM next day. Caught an Uber, back to home. Most/All of the temples in the Southern India were built by the Cholas. The Cholas left a lasting legacy. Their patronage of Tamil literature and their zeal in the building of temples has resulted in some great works of Tamil literature and architecture. The Chola kings were avid builders and envisioned the temples in their kingdoms not only as places of worship but also as centres of economic activity.

Photos from Day 2:


Nachiyar Koil

Elephant at Rajagopalaswamy Temple, Mannargudi(Hair is made to grow like that)

Rajagopalaswamy Temple, Mannargudi

Rajagopalaswamy Temple, Mannargudi

Rajagopalaswamy Temple, Mannargudi

Temple Tank Outside Rajagopalaswamy Temple, Mannargudi

Brihadeeswarar Temple, Thanjavur

Tyagaraja Swamy Home


Tyagaraja Swamy 6th  Generation (Hope I got the generation right)

Swaminathaswamy temple, Swamimalai 

P.S: Apologies for bad photo quality

Epilogue:
  • All(Most of) the Navagraha temples are closed from 1 PM - 4 PM. 
  • Its easier to hire a local cab for the visit as they are familiar with the route
  • Generally hotels you stay offer the packages which can be customized
  • The Shani temple Thirunallar will be super crowded on Saturdays. We spent 4 hours in the special darshan queue
  • Credits to my wife for remembering all the temple names
  • The driver name was Vivek and he hardly spoke. It was Ilayaraja songs playlist in his car. But he made sure we cover all the places and he was accommodative as per our wishes. He can be reached directly at +91-9585684268. 

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